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Guess what, guys?! I have psychic abilities… You don’t believe me, do you? Watch this! You’re here because you want to know if with grain haircuts could help maintain your 360 hair waves! You may even be wondering what’s the difference between WTG vs ATG and how they impact your wave progression!
See, I told you I had psychic skills! Who am I kidding? I cannot see into the future or read anyone’s mind… My guess is a result of clever keyword placement, understanding my audience’s needs, and providing better information than my competitors. With that said, let’s get to business!
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What does with the grain haircut (WTG) mean?
Cutting with the grain hair basically means the hair is cut in the same direction of the natural flow of the hair towards the hairline. An electric hair clipper is used to cut hair from the crown going in a forward direction towards the hairline, sideburns, and back neckline. WTG haircuts always go in the directional flow of your hair waves.
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Let’s put my “psychic abilities” to the test and answer more questions you may have about WTG wave haircuts!
What does WTG stand for?
We currently live in a time where just about everything is abbreviated… For example, “LOL” is an abbreviation of “Lots of Locks”. The actual definition of “abbreviation” is the shortened form of a word or phrase. The shortened phrase is represented by the first letter of each word contained in the slogan.
Now that we have a better understanding of acronyms, WTG will make sense as an acronym for “With the Grain”. You’ll notice that WTG acronym and “with the grain” are used interchangeably in hair wave forums and wave building YouTube videos.
The with the grain (WTG) abbreviation is frequently used and interchangeable within the short 360 hair wave community! I will interchange between the acronym and long-form when talking about with the grain directional haircuts.
What is a 1 and a half haircut?
A one and a half haircut is based on the electric clipper guard size that is used to cut the hair. The hair clipper guard attachment is placed on the trimmer to achieve desired haircut hair length.
The number 0 haircut guard is about 1/16th inches or 1.5mm while the number 1.5 is equivalent to 3/16” or 4.8mm. Remember, when cutting your hair at home you will need number 0 guard for a perfect 1.5 WTG wave haircut.
Keep in mind that you can request that your barber use #0 clipper guard to achieve desired low wave haircuts. Haircuts such as with the grain tapers and other faded WTG haircuts also look great with the 3/16” labeled guard.
How long will a 1.5 WTG haircut last?
360 Wavy Wil!
Getting a straight answer about how long a one and a half grain haircut last could vary for multiple reasons. To best answer, I’d have to know what are the goals you have in mind for your hair. For example, if you are considering 360 wolfing waves you’ll need to allow a month between haircuts to maintain wave progression!
However, if you maintain low hair because of maturing hairline or prefer low maintenance haircuts the length between haircuts is shorter. Typically, in such cases a number 0 guard haircut and hairline edge up last about two weeks.
Keep in mind that there are other factors that dictate how long a 1.5 WTG haircut may possibly last. Let’s explore the reasons someone may determine whether or not It’s time for a haircut!
The common factors that cause hair to grow faster leading to frequent WTG haircuts
- Genetics – Note that genetics playing a part in male pattern baldness, and it is also responsible for fast hair growth. Keep in mind that the overactive geneLhx2 is responsible and leads to increased hair growth. Men who experience rapid hair growth usually cut their hair more often to maintain their 1.5 WTG 360 waves haircuts.
- Preference – Preference in hair length plays a huge factor in how often a male may cut their hair. I will not spend too much time on this point since I’ve already talked about it! Depending on the preferred hairstyle and desired hair length could lead you to either a short or long periods between haircuts.
- Diet – I’ve mentioned in past articles that diet has a direct correlation in how the human body function. A balanced diet that contains high protein may cause the male hair to grow faster than average. This could be a hassle for men who prefer to keep their hair short… However, I doubt men are complaining about fast hair growth if the alternative is hair loss.
As you see, 1.5 with the grain haircuts have a wide range between haircut duration. There are even extreme cases where guys get haircuts every single week, no matter what! Let me know in the comment area how often you get a WTG 360 wave haircut and why!
What do you need for a 1.5 with the grain haircut?
Ahh, so I’ve piqued your interest, and you’re considering getting a 1.5 with the grain length haircut. Well… you will need a few items! These items will assure the best outcome for 1.5 haircuts while cutting your hair or your children’s hair at home. Let’s take a look at some necessary things you’ll need to achieve a perfect one and a half grain haircut.
Must have for WTG 1.5 haircut
- Brush – A hairbrush is a tool used to groom the hair. Keep in mind that the wave brush is necessary before and after with the grain haircuts. By using the wave hairbrush, you will be able to make the hair lay in the same direction prior to the WTG haircut. Keep in mind a hairbrush is a great tool for clearing the head of loose hair after the haircut.
- Hair Clippers – A hair clipper is a tool used to cut hair on the human head. They work on the same principle as scissors but more efficient and evenly than scissors and straight razors. Haircut clippers have a built-in adjustable blade level lever on the side that provides hair length flexibility.
- # 0 or 1/16” hair clipper guard – Clipper combs attachments are tools that help measure the length of hair you are cutting. Guide combs are designed to universally fit onto any clipper’s blades. You will need number 0 (1/16”) clipper guard for 1.5 with the grain fade.
- T Outliner – The T-outliners work similarly to the hair clippers; the difference is T-outliner cuts much closer. Keep in mind that the hair outliner is also used to shape up the hairline, sideburns, and neckline.
- Rubbing Alcohol – Alcohol is a liquid solution used to kill bacteria and germ. Isopropyl alcohol should be used after every haircut to prevent the spread of germs and disease at the barbershop and at home.
Everything listed above will be items you will need for a 1 and a half haircut. Keep in mind all of them could be purchased on Amazon.com with a simple item search!
Which direction is better for with the grain haircuts?
The direction of the grain refers to the hair waves natural directional course. When you look at the head of a male with a full head of hair, you will notice the hair is laying unison in one direction. This is known as the direction of the grain.
With the grain direction usually goes from the back crown of the head lay in a forward direction towards the hairline. The side and back of the head have a similar flow but instead, the flow course is towards the sideburns and back neckline.
However, the course of the hair grain can be altered by combing and brushing of the hair. To change the direction of your hair grain, you must start by shaving the head completely. This will allow a fresh start and provide the opportunity to train your hair with a brush to grow in the desired direction.
When cutting hair, should you go against the grain?
The question of whether to cut WTG or ATG depends if you’re trying to get waves versus a short even-haircut. When you cut against the grain, the hair is cut shorter than 1.5 mm. This happens because during against the grain haircuts the hair is lifted resulting in haircuts being closer to the scalp.
Keep in mind that not only is the hair cut shorter when going ATG but it also cuts more evenly all over the head. When I first started out and was still a novice barber cutting against the grain was my go-to technique. At the time it worked and helped me build confidence as a barber to try more advanced haircutting techniques.
However, this is not the case for WTG haircuts, there’s more finesse needed to cut hair with grain correctly! This is due to the highs and lows of the hair waves while following the grain during the haircut. For a perfect haircut, you will have to understand the rules of pressure… basically, understanding when to lighten up or apply pressure during a WTG wave haircut. Let’s take a look at reasons why one would choose one over the other.
- Low haircut – Going against the grain haircuts are perfect for low haircuts and bald fades. This is because the hair is cut shorter.
- Beginner – Cutting ATG is most ideal for new barbers with limited experience. Keep in mind that cutting against the grain reduces the chances of uneven haircuts.
- Flawed equipment – A 1.5 against the grain may be the answer to defective equipment such as chipped clipper blades. When the hair clipper has a chipped blade, it will not cut evenly but cutting ATG can solve that problem.
- Speed – Fade against the grain haircuts are extremely precise and fast! Note that counter grain haircuts usually take about 10 to 15 minutes to complete. This is very appealing to a male who is on the go and pressed for time.
- Wave progressing – keep in mind the best way to maintain your hair wave progression is cut with the grain. It is much harder to see 360 hair waves when the hair is short as a result of cutting ATG. I can tell you firsthand and 99.9% of barbers will agree that with the grain haircuts are effective for maintaining waves!
- Experienced barber – With the grain cuts are normally performed by experienced barbers. Cutting the same direction as the natural hair flow could be a bit difficult in comparison to cutting ATG.
- Flexibility – WTG haircuts offer more flexibility and haircut options compared to cutting against the grain.
As you see from the list above, there are distinctive differences between WTG and ATG haircuts. Both directional haircuts have their pros and cons, but both are able to serve their purposes.
Could desired hair length still be achieved with ATG haircuts?
The answer is yes, it is definitely possible to cut against the grain and still get 1.5 mm length haircuts. To achieve a 1.5 mm size haircut, you will need to use a higher size clipper guard. So, instead of using a number 0 guard, you would use the #2 or number 3 clipper guards to cut your hair.
Remember, in order to maintain the same hair level for cutting WTG, you would need to use a bigger guard size to cut against the grain to achieve that. Again, the hair is cut much shorter when trimming hair ATG… Remember, there are many hair textures that may require you to use either the 2 or 3 guards.
I suggest that you start with the number 3 clipper hair guard then work your way down to the 2 guard if needed. What you don’t want to do is start with the number two guard then realize it’s too short for your liking.
Whenever you’re cutting ATG it is important to start with 2 or 3 guard sizes higher than you normally would when cutting WTG. If the hair is still too high, you could go down a guard size… The beauty of going three guards higher is you can keep reducing clipper guard size until desired hair length.
What is the purpose of the clipper guard when cutting WTG for wave haircuts?
Like I mentioned earlier, clipper attachments are tools that help gauge the length during hair cutting. The hair clipper guard allows the barber to have flexibility which determines hair length and even hairstyles during haircuts. You should know that the clipper modifications offer alternative sizes other than # 0 guard which further allows flexibility!
You can find a set of clipper guards just about anywhere, Amazon, local beauty stores, and even in dollar stores… Literally anywhere, and they are pretty reasonably priced. A collection of clipper guards are usually anywhere between 5 to 10 pieces in a set. However, most clipper sets come with 8 guards, and each hair clipper size represents the amount of hair that will be cut when used.
You should know that the higher the number, the longer the haircut. Guards such as Andis magnetic guards set use 0 through 8 numeric breakdowns to measure the haircut lengths. Keep in mind that other brands like the Oster detachable cutter measure from 0 to 10.
Take a look at the chart below
|GUARD NUMBER||GUARD SIZE (inches)||HAIR LENGTH (mm)|
As you can see from the chart above there is a direct correlation between the numbers on the clipper guard and the length of your haircut. This is important to know, that way when you’re at the barbershop you’ll be able to tell your barber the exact length. Trust me, your barber will appreciate a straight answer verse you are telling them with sign language! It cracks me up when I see people do that!
What is the difference between WTG and ATG?
There’s a huge difference in the way hair is cut when talking about ATG and WTG haircuts. Someone with a trained eye can tell right away if the hair was cut WTG or ATG once they’ve examined the head.
- With the grain – WTG haircuts cut from the back end of the crown as a starting point then advance forward towards the hairline. The haircut path follows the course of the hair’s natural flow. With the grain haircuts also starts the back of the crown and advances downwards towards the back neckline and sideburns.
- Against the grain – ATG haircuts start from the hairline until the end of the crown of the head. Remember that WTG wave haircuts are opposite of ATG haircuts and go against the current of the hairs’ natural flow. When cutting the sides and back of the head, the cut starts from the sideburns and back neckline and cuts upwards towards the crown.
In order to achieve the best 360 wave results, the best haircutting practice is to go with the grain. WTH wave haircuts follow the natural directional flow of the hair, this allows wave progressions to continue without being disturbed. Remember, a 1.5 haircut with the grain allows a short hairstyle like a 1.5 taper haircut while maintaining hair waves.
Keep in mind that haircuts AGT are the opposite of WTH haircuts and cause an interruption in hair wave progression. Against the grain haircuts cut more evenly throughout the head and are frequently used by novice barbers.
Remember the best way to achieve a 1.5 with the grain haircut is to use the Andis clipper guards number 0. The clipper guard is removable, easy to use, and offers a wide range of haircut flexibility.
Now that you know the difference between ATG and WTG haircuts feel free to like, subscribe, and share this post… Let’s keep building our community together! Also, read the other article from AfroCurlsandCuts.com
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